Women's Shoulder Princess Seam Top -- Free PDF Sewing Pattern for Bust Size 36 Inches

If you’re looking for a flattering, versatile, and beginner-friendly sewing project, this Shoulder Princess Seam Sleeveless Top is just the ticket! Designed for a 36-inch bust, this free PDF sewing pattern will guide you through creating a beautifully tailored garment that works for both casual and dressy occasions.

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for women:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Women

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for kids:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Kids

Click the link below to see the complete list of Free PDF Sewing Patterns for 18-Inch Dolls:

18-Inch Doll Clothes Free PDF Sewing Patterns

Let's dive into the tutorial.

Princess Seams for a Flattering Fit

Shoulder princess seams gently shape the bodice, providing a smooth, curve-following fit without darts. 

What Is a Princess Seam?

A princess seam is a long, shaped seam that runs over the bust point, creating a smooth, contoured fit through the bodice. It provides shaping without the use of traditional darts.

There are two main types of princess seams:

1. Shoulder Princess Seam – begins at the mid-shoulder, curves over the bust point, and continues down to the waist.

2. Armhole (Armscye) Princess Seam – begins at the mid-armhole, passes over the bust point, and extends to the waist.

The seamline is gently curved to follow the natural contours of the body, especially around the bust area. Princess seams effectively incorporate the shaping that would otherwise be formed by darts — they replace dart legs and serve the same purpose of controlling fullness for a better fit.

Beginner-Friendly Construction

With clear seam lines and simple edges, this top is an easy project for those new to garment sewing.

Sizing & Fit

This pattern is drafted for a figure with a full bust measurement of 36 inches and an upper bust measurement of 34 inches, corresponding to a B cup in pattern drafting. (Note: this cup size refers to the difference between the full bust and upper bust measurements, which is used for fitting adjustments, and is not the same as a bra cup size, which is based on the difference between the full bust and underbust measurements.)

In pattern drafting, the cup size is determined by:

A cup: 1" difference between upper bust and full bust

B cup: 2" difference

C cup: 3" difference

D cup: 4" difference, etc.

Recommended Fabrics

Choose a light- to medium-weight woven fabric with good drape:

* Cotton lawn or poplin for crisp structure

* Rayon challis or crepe for a softer look

* Linen blends for breathable summer wear

Avoid fabrics with a lot of stretch, as the pattern is designed for stable weaves.

What You’ll Need

*This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Sewing Supplies Needed:

1. Fabric 

2. Free printable PDF sewing pattern (pattern link is given below)

3. Printer paper

4. Sewing machine (I am using Janome and Bernina. Both are excellent sewing machines. Brother is equally good too. I have heard good reviews about it.)

5. Sewing machine thread (I prefer using Gütermann and Coats, which are of great quality.)

6. Tape measure

7. Sewing pins

8. Serger (I am using Brother M343D, which works great.)

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Download the Free Pattern

You can download the PDF pattern (link provided below) and print it at home on A4 or Letter-sized paper. Simply cut, tape, and start sewing.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages.

Pattern Assembly:

The diagram below is given as a guide to assemble the pattern pages. There are 8 pages in the pattern PDF. And these pages are arranged as shown in the diagram.

If you want to add sleeves to this pattern, you can use the puffed sleeves pattern in the tied front blouse provided here.

2. Cut Your Fabric

• Cut out all pieces: front bodice (split into center and side panels), back bodice (same) from both the lining and main fabrics. 

• Transfer all markings and notches.

3. Sew the Princess Seams

• Pin and sew the front side panels of the main fabric to the front center panels, easing curves gently.

• Repeat for the back bodice.

• Press seams toward the center or press them open and topstitch if desired.

• Repeat the same for the front and back of the lining pieces as well.

4. Assemble the Button Placket

• Interface the placket area.

5. Join Front and Back Bodices

• Sew shoulder seams.

6. Join Armholes, Neckline, and Center Front, and Side Seams

• With right sides of the lining and main fabric facing, sew the armholes, neckline, and center front.

• Press for a clean edge.

• Sew side seams.

• Press all seams open.

7. Hem the Bottom and Sew the Buttons and Buttonholes

• Fold up the hem  (1/2 inch).

• Stitch close to the folded edge.

• Mark buttonholes on the button placket and sew them.

• Attach buttons.

8. Final Touches

• Add any decorative topstitching.

• Give the garment a final press.

• Try it on and admire your work!

With its clean lines, flattering fit, and simple construction, this Shoulder Princess Seam Sleeveless Top is sure to become a wardrobe staple.

👉Download the Free Pattern for the Shoulder Princess Seam Top Here

Here is a clear, practical guide to ensure your shoulder princess seam front bodice pieces align exactly during sewing:

1. Mark Key Notches

• Transfer all notches from the pattern accurately:

  • Notches above/below bust curve where easing is required.

2. Staystitch the Curves

• Staystitch along the curved edges (both pieces) just inside the seam allowance to prevent stretching.

• This is crucial for the side front piece’s concave curve, which can easily stretch.

3. Clip the Curved Seam (Concave Piece)

• Clip into the seam allowance of the concave (side front) piece along the curve, about every ½”–¾” up to but not through the staystitch.

• This allows the edge to spread and match the convex curve of the center front piece.

4. Pin Strategically

1. Pin at the notches first.

2. Pin at the ends (top shoulder and bottom waist).

3. Ease the fabric gently between pins, adding additional pins as needed.

4. The center front piece will have extra fullness, which you will ease into the side front smoothly.

5. Baste Before Sewing

• Hand-baste or machine-baste using a long stitch length before the final stitch.

• This helps you adjust easing and prevents puckers along the bust curve.

6. Sew with the Gathered Side Up

• Place the side front (concave, clipped piece) against the feed dogs and the center front (convex) on top.

• The feed dogs will help ease in fullness while you guide the top fabric smoothly.

Press Immediately

• Press the seam over a tailor’s ham to preserve the shape of the curve.

• Press seam allowances toward the center front or press open the seam allowances.

Summary Checklist:

✅ Same seam allowances?
✅ Accurate notches?
✅ Staystitched curves?
✅ Clipped concave edges?
✅ Pinned at key points first?
✅ Basted before final sewing?
✅ Sew with gathered side down?

✅ Press over tailor’s ham? 

Styling Ideas

* Pair with jeans and flats for a casual weekend look.

* Tuck into a pencil skirt for a chic office outfit.

* Layer under a blazer or cardigan for transitional weather.

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

How to Draft a Night Pants Pattern

In this tutorial, we’ll be drafting a basic elastic-waist night pants pattern — a comfortable and easy-to-sew wardrobe essential that’s perfect for lounging, sleeping, or even casual wear.

This simple yet versatile draft can be adapted to create pants of any desired length, whether you prefer full-length pajama pants for cozy nights, capri-length pants for warmer weather, or Bermuda-style lounge pants for a breezy, relaxed fit.

The beauty of this pattern lies in its flexibility — by simply adjusting the length measurement, you can tailor it to your personal style and comfort. Whether you’re a beginner learning to draft your first pattern or an experienced sewist looking for a quick and satisfying project, these elastic-waist pants are a perfect choice.

You need only two measurements to draft this pattern:

1. Full length of the pants (from waist to the desired length [usually a few inches above the knee])

2. Hip round

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for women:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Women

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for kids:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Kids

Click the link below to see the complete list of Free PDF Sewing Patterns for 18-Inch Dolls:

18-Inch Doll Clothes Free PDF Sewing Patterns

Let's start drafting the pants pattern.

Night pants front pattern draft:

A to B = full length of the pants from the waist.

A to C is the crotch depth measurement. You can calculate crotch depth using this formula: hip round/4 + 2 inches. (You can add 0.5 or 1 inch of ease to this measurement, according to your preference.)

You can also take the crotch depth (or) body rise measurement on your body and add 0.5 or 1 inch for ease.

Draw horizontal lines from A, B, and C.

C to E = hip round/4 + 1 inch ease (or 1.5 inches if you want to have more ease) (C to E is the crotch line)

A to D is same as C to E.

E to F = hip round/12

E to H = hip round/8

E to I = half of E to F + 0.25 inch 

Shape H-I-F as shown.

B to G = C to F minus 1 inch (B to G is the hemline)

Shape inside seam or leg seam F-G.

Night pants back pattern draft:

Back pattern can be drafted by adding the following measurements to the front pattern: 

F to J = 1.5 inches

F to K = 0.75 inches

Join K and D.

K to M is same as E to H which is 1/8 hip.

Shape J-M  as shown.

D to L = 0.75 inch

Join A and L.

G to N = 1.5 inches

Shape inside seam J-N.

Seam allowances:

Add 1.5 inches at the waistline for the casing for the elastic.

Add 1.5 inches at the bottom for hem.

Add 0.5 inches at the side seams (if you prefer to have side seams).

Add 0.5 at the fork (crotch curve) and inseam.

If you’re making these pants using heavier or bulkier fabrics such as wool, fleece, or velvet, you’ll need to make a few adjustments to ensure a comfortable fit.
Increase the crotch depth slightly to allow for the fabric’s thickness and to maintain ease of movement. In addition, add a little extra ease to the C–E measurement (the hip width) so the pants don’t feel tight or restrictive when sewn from heavier materials. These small modifications will help your pants drape nicely and fit comfortably, even with thicker fabrics.

You can find a free shorts pattern for kids' sizes 6 to 12 years at this link on my blog

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to have a browse through the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

How to Draft a Raglan Style Top

The raglan-style top is one of the easiest designs to draft and sew. It serves as the foundation for peasant-style tops and is created using a basic blouse pattern as the starting point.

 

A raglan sleeve starts right at the neckline and extends diagonally down to the armhole, creating a smooth, slanted seam that gives the top its distinctive look and comfortable fit.

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for women:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Women

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for kids:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Kids

Click the link below to see the complete list of Free PDF Sewing Patterns for 18-Inch Dolls:

18-Inch Doll Clothes Free PDF Sewing Patterns

Pattern draft:

To draft your raglan top pattern, you’ll need the following measurements:

* Length of the top

* Bust circumference

* Shoulder width (measured from one shoulder edge to the other)

* Neck depth (front and back)

* Armhole depth

Front:

A to B = Length of the top (as per your preference)
A to C = Neck depth
A to D = 1/8 bust + 2.5 inches (or scye depth measurement, i.e., armhole depth measurement or 1/4 bust - 1)

D to E = 1/4 bust + 0.75-inch ease (ease can be reduced when you use a stretchy fabric to sew this top)

B to F is same as D to E or plus 2 inches for kids' size(4 inches for women's size) if you want flare at the hemline
A to G = Half of the shoulder measurement
G to H = Blouse's shoulder width you prefer

(or A to H = bust/12 + 0.25 inch or the measurement from the center of the neck to where you want your blouse's neckline to sit on the shoulder at neck.) 

G to I = 1 inch (reduce this to 0.50 inch to 0.75 inch for kids' sizes)

IE is the armhole curve of the basic bodice, which is not required here.

Shape the front neckline HC.

Connect A and E. Mark point J where the line AE meets the neckline.

Draw a vertical line from I which meets the line DE at point K.
Mark point L 1 inch from K (for women's blouses) (this could be 1/2 inch for kids under 8 years and 3/4 inch for kids 9 to 12 years). Shape ELJ.

AB is where you keep the fold in the fabric when you cut the front piece.



Back:

Same as front except for the following changes:

A to C represents the back neck depth, which is typically 1 inch.

 

If you’re working with a knit (stretch) fabric, this depth is usually sufficient, as the stretch will allow the top to slip comfortably over your head.

 

However, if you’re using a non-stretch (woven or non-woven) fabric, it’s important to add a small slit or opening at the center back. This will make it easier to put on and take off the top without straining the neckline.

 

Tip: You can finish the slit with a button loop or hook-and-eye closure for a neat and functional finish.

Mark point L 1.5 inch from K (for women's blouses) (this could be 3/4 inch for kids under 8 years and 1 inch for kids 9 to 12 years). Shape ELJ.

AB is where you keep the fold on the fabric when you cut the back piece.






Sleeve:

A to B = 1/8 bust + 2.5 inches (or 1/4 bust - 1 or scye depth, i.e., armhole depth)
A to C = Neck depth
A to O = Half of the shoulder measurement
A to D = A to G in the front blouse draft
B to F = 1/4 bust + 0.75-inch ease (the same ease you kept for the blouse front) 
Draw a vertical line from O which meets BF at point P.
Connect A and F. Mark point Q where the line AF meets the neckline.
Mark point G where lines OP and AF cross.
G to I = 1 inch (this could be 1/2 inch for kids under 8 years and 3/4 inch for kids 9 to 12 years)
G to H = 1.5 inch (this could be 3/4 inch for kids under 8 years and 1 inch for kids 9 to 12 years)

Shape sleeve front armhole FHQ and back armhole FIQ.
D to L = Length of the sleeve from D plus 2 to 3 inches for fullness at the arm round of the puffed sleeve.

AL = BE

Connect L and E.

L to N = Half sleeve round + 0.5 inch ease (you can reduce ease if you are using a knit fabric)
Join F and N.
N to M = 0.75 inch
Join L and M with a curved line.

AL is where you keep the fold in the fabric when you cut the sleeve pieces.












Add seam and hem allowances:

For blouse front and back:

3/8 inch for the armhole.
3/4 inch for the neckline 
1/2 inch or 1 inch on the sides.
3/4 inch for the blouse bottom hemline

For sleeves:

3/8 inch for the sleeve cap curve.
1/2 inch or 1 inch for the sides.

3/4 inch at the sleeve hemline.

1/2 inch for the neckline (The sleeves start from the neckline, so they make part of the neckline.)

Mkae sure to cut the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces on fold.

I have posted a free PDF sewing pattern for kids' peasant blouse for sizes 1 year to 12 years at the link below:

Click this link for the free PDF sewing pattern for Kids' peasant blouse for sizes 1 year to 12 years.

How to Sew?

Step 1: Cut out the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces.

Step 2: Attach the sleeves with the front and back bodices:

With right sides facing, attach the sleeves to the front and back bodices.


Step 3: Join the sides.

Step 4. Finish the neckline and sleeve hemline by attaching a bias tape to them. And then attach the sleeves to the armhole round.

Step 5. Sew the side seams.

Step 6. Hem the bottom of the blouse.

Fold down the hemline to the wrong side by 1/4 first, and again by 1/2 inch and sew along the folded edge. 

That's it! Done.

Please leave your comments and questions in the comments section under this post. I will be happy to answer.

Click here for the free PDF sewing pattern for Kids' peasant blouse for sizes 1 year to 12 years.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy Sewing!

--Flora

DIY Embroidered Cottage Core Hair Bows (with Free PDF Sewing Pattern)

A handmade embroidered hair bow adds a touch of charm and elegance to any outfit. In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through making your own cottage core bows (two variations-- a simple bow and a bow with long ties), from fabric selection and pattern creation to embroidery and sewing.

Bring a touch of storybook charm to your hairstyle with these handcrafted embroidered hair bows. 

Perfect for braids, ponytails, or clipped at the side, these bows blend vintage elegance with handmade warmth. Whether you’re wandering through a garden, dressing up for a picnic, or simply adding a dreamy accent to everyday outfits, an embroidered cottage core bow is the perfect finishing touch.

It's lightweight and comfortable – easy to wear all day.

It has a timeless style – pairs beautifully with dresses, skirts, and cosy knitwear.

A sweet accessory for lovers of slow, handmade fashion.

Supplies You’ll Need

* Fabric: Medium-weight cotton, linen, or cotton-blend canvas (approx. ¼ yard)

* Embroidery floss: Colors of your choice (DMC or Anchor work well)

* Embroidery hoop: 5–6 inch size is ideal

* Embroidery needles: Sharp, with a medium eye

* Water-soluble fabric marker or heat-erasable pen

* Fabric scissors or rotary cutter

* Pins or sewing clips

* Sewing machine (or hand sewing needle for small finishes)

* Iron and ironing board

* Hair clip or elastic band (optional for finishing)

Pattern Creation

1. Bow base: Draw two rectangles 5" × 3" (for the bow loops).

2. Tails: Draw two rectangles 14" × 3". Cut the ends into curved shape for a classic ribbon look.

3. Center knot: Draw a small rectangle 2.5" × 2".

4. Add ½" seam allowance all around.

5. Download link for the free PDF hair bow pattern is at the end of this blogpost. 👇

Embroidery Preparation

1. Trace 1 bow piece and 1 tail piece onto the fabric for embroidering, and then secure the fabric in the embroidery hoop. Trace and and cut out the other pieces of bow and tail, as well as the center piece, and keep them aside.

2. Using your favourite transferring method, tranfer your embroidery designs onto the bow base and tails.

3. Place fabric with the designs in your embroidery hoop.

4. Choose stitches as you like, and finish the embroidery.

👉 Tip: Keep your embroidery within 1/2" of the seam edges so the design is visible after sewing.

Sewing Tutorial

1. Cut fabric: Once embroidered, cut out your bow, tail, and knot pieces.

2. Sew bow base:

   * Sew the two rectangle, right sides together, leaving a 1 1/2 inch opening at the center of the longer lower edge.   

   * Turn right-side out, close the opening by whip stitching it, and press.

* Thread a needle and pass it through the center of the bow  pieces, starting at the bottom edge and coming out at the top edge. Form accordion pleats as you stitch, then wrap the thread several times tightly around the centre to secure the gathers in place.”

3. Sew tails:

   * Place two tail pieces right sides together.

   * Sew around edges, leaving a 1 1/2 inch opening at the center of the top edge.

   * Clip corners, turn right-side out, close the opening by whip stitching it, and press.

    * Thread a needle and pass it through the center of the bow’s tail pieces, starting at the bottom edge and coming out at the top edge. Form accordion pleats as you stitch, then wrap the thread several times tightly around the centre to secure the gathers in place.

4. Sew knot piece:

   

   * Fold down the short edges of the small rectangle by 1/2 inch and sew along the folded edge.

   * Fold lengthwise, right sides together.

   * Sew along the long edge, turn right-side out, and press.

5. Assemble:

   * Fold bow base into loops (ends overlapping at the center).

   * Layer tails below the bow.

   * Wrap knot piece around center and hand-stitch or machine-stitch securely.

   * Attach to a clip or elastic band if desired.

Attaching the Bow to a Hair Clip

1. Choose the clip

   • Alligator clip (great for everyday wear, easy to slip in).

   • French barrette (more secure for thicker hair).

2. Wrap the bow center

   • Keep your bow’s middle “knot” piece (the small fabric strip you used to cinch the bow).

   • Before stitching it down completely, slide the clip underneath.

3. Secure by stitching or glue

   • Hand-sew through the fabric and clip holes (if using a barrette).

   • Or, apply a strong fabric glue or hot glue directly onto the flat part of the clip, then press the bow in place. Hold until set.

Attaching the Bow to a Hair Elastic

1. Make a loop in the center piece

   • When wrapping the small fabric strip around the bow’s center, slide the elastic band into place.

   • The strip should enclose both the bow and the elastic.

2. Sew securely

   • Overlap the ends of the center strip tightly and hand-sew the ends, ensuring the elastic is trapped inside.

   • Reinforce with a few extra stitches so it won’t pull loose.

3. Optional reinforcement

   • Add a dab of fabric glue or hot glue for extra durability, especially if the bow will be worn often.

✨ You’ve now created a gorgeous embroidered bow with ties! Perfect for gifts, everyday wear, or special occasions.

Finishing Touches

* Press gently with a warm iron (avoid ironing directly on embroidery).

* Trim loose threads.

* Add fabric stiffener for extra structure.

Variations

* Use velvet or satin for a dressy look.

* Try monogram embroidery for personalization.

* Add beads or sequins for sparkle.

Download Link:

👉 Cottage Core Hair Bow Free PDF Pattern

Happy Sewing!

---Flora